For my setup however, I decided to invert the cooler, and wrap sheets of stainless steel wool around 1/2in PVC end caps with four smalls holes drilled into them. Holes in the mid-plate allow water to drain into the end caps.
A couple weeks later, I had the bottom and top coolers fully machined and assembled, and began leak testing. I never had any significant leaks, as I use silicone sealer during assembly between all plastic parts. That coupled with M5 stainless steel screws all around gives me a very leak resistant setup that I never worry about leaking.
At this point, the hard part was done. Because I used a dual pump design from the start, all I had to do was add components and build the liquid cooling loop that would actually cool the hardware. I bought a EVGA GTX670 FTW and kept the i7 2600K and Asus Z68V-Pro from the Project Rainfall build. I had been using the water block from a Corsair H60 kit up until this point, but I knew it was time to get some real components. I had for the most part, used up my budget due to buying books for school and replacing my cell phone. So I contacted several companies about sponsoring the build, and Gregor from EKWB helped me out. He sent me a EK-KIT H3O 360 LTX and a EK-FC680 GTX CSQ. Thanks Gregor!
While I was waiting for the water cooling parts to come in, I decided to go ahead and finish the styling for the top cooler. I wanted something that had a similar flow to the original case, which feature raised sides and slanted edges.
I love both the water blocks. Right now, running Prime95 I get a max temp on the CPU of about 55 degrees, and running EVGA’s scanner Furry-Tessellation benchmark thingy, I get a max of 35 degrees on the graphics card. I decided to paint them white to continue the all-white theme, which was easy due the finish of the plastic that did not require to be sanded. At work, I brought in all the heat sinks from the motherboard, as well as the radiator and sandblasted them. This helped me get the colors matched better to theme. I decided to use the radiator that came in the kit.
Click to enlarge
A couple weeks later, I had the bottom and top coolers fully machined and assembled, and began leak testing. I never had any significant leaks, as I use silicone sealer during assembly between all plastic parts. That coupled with M5 stainless steel screws all around gives me a very leak resistant setup that I never worry about leaking.
Click to enlarge
At this point, the hard part was done. Because I used a dual pump design from the start, all I had to do was add components and build the liquid cooling loop that would actually cool the hardware. I bought a EVGA GTX670 FTW and kept the i7 2600K and Asus Z68V-Pro from the Project Rainfall build. I had been using the water block from a Corsair H60 kit up until this point, but I knew it was time to get some real components. I had for the most part, used up my budget due to buying books for school and replacing my cell phone. So I contacted several companies about sponsoring the build, and Gregor from EKWB helped me out. He sent me a EK-KIT H3O 360 LTX and a EK-FC680 GTX CSQ. Thanks Gregor!
Click to enlarge
While I was waiting for the water cooling parts to come in, I decided to go ahead and finish the styling for the top cooler. I wanted something that had a similar flow to the original case, which feature raised sides and slanted edges.
Click to enlarge
I love both the water blocks. Right now, running Prime95 I get a max temp on the CPU of about 55 degrees, and running EVGA’s scanner Furry-Tessellation benchmark thingy, I get a max of 35 degrees on the graphics card. I decided to paint them white to continue the all-white theme, which was easy due the finish of the plastic that did not require to be sanded. At work, I brought in all the heat sinks from the motherboard, as well as the radiator and sandblasted them. This helped me get the colors matched better to theme. I decided to use the radiator that came in the kit.
MSI MPG Velox 100R Chassis Review
October 14 2021 | 15:04
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